Saturday, October 29, 2005


Evoo is a cute neighborhood bistro in Somerville serving contemporary food. I went for the first time when they opened a few years ago, but hadn't been back for a while.

Creatively carved pumpkins dotted the entrance as we walked throught the door. Our favorite was the "Tom Delay" that had a plastic doll of him behind bars. We sat down at a corner table near the windows , which was a little drafty considering it was snowing outside. It was only five-thirty, so the room was only partially full. Our waiter was very nice and friendly and gave us a few recommendations.

To start I got the carrot soup with raisins, apples, and mint. It arrived slightly lukewarm, and the carrots had good roasted flavor, but a slight bitter aftertaste. Overall, the flavors blended nicely to create a good fall dish. We also got a pumpkin coconut soup that was asian influenced. The coconut milk added depth to the soup along with some spices. We had a fried green tomato stuffed with maine crabmeat that was crispy on the outside, but the crabmeat was a little bland. The asian baby back ribs were nothing new, with a sweet hoisin sauce.

For an entree I had the salmon with a bulgar pilaf and roasted beets. The salmon had a crispy crust, but was mediocre. Crunchy bulgar provided a nice contrast to the tasteless beets. Duck, duck, goose is a classic here; it has foie gras, duck confit, and goose breast atop a green bean and lentil salad served with a salty pan sauce. The duck and goose were perfectly cooked and had a pleasant flavor. The foie gras was rich and creamy as it should be and paired well with the green beans. The stuffed sugar pumpkin was cute and was filled with a lamb tagine with couscous and green olives. The combination of the pumpkin and lamb was good and creative. The lime cilantro chicken breast was served in a tamale with mashed yams and black beans. The chicken was moist and the lime and cilantro blended well with the yams and black beans.

For dessert I had a brown sugar sweet potato pie with apple butter and whipped cream. The sweet potato filling didn't have as much flavor as a pumpkin one would have, but the brown sugar below it was reminiscent of caramel and balanced well with the tart apple butter and smooth whipped cream. The pear cranberry crumble was warm and crisp and was served with a very subtle lavender ice cream that should have been more flavorful. The best dessert was the lemon raspberry tart with a not too sweet lemon curd and fresh rasberries on top. Combined with the flaky crust, this was a perfect end to the meal.

This is a cozy neighborhood restaurant serving good food at reasonable prices. The food is nothing mind-blowing, but well-prepared using fresh, local produce and is creative. It was about $45 a person for a three course meal including tax.

EVOO: 118 Beacon Street, Somerville MA 02143
T. 617 661 EVOO F. 617 661 8866


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